Gitte Holm

The beachy side of Copenhagen

Amager – also known as ‘Shit Island’ – might not be so shitty after all. Since the expansion of a new artificial island in 2005, which makes up the primary part of the beach area, Amager Strandpark (Amager Beach) is now one of Copenhagen’s most popular recreational areas.

The neighborhood covers a gigantic area in Copenhagen, primarily made up of residential areas with several neighborhoods within the neighborhood. Islands Brygge, the Beach, Ørestad and Eberts Villaby and several others are all part of Amager. We will cover the most central parts in this guide.

Amager is for you if…

  • you want to stay close to the beach…
  • … or Christianshavn and Refshaleøen
  • you want to beat the crowds and hang out with the locals
  • a quick 10 minute metro ride to the airport sounds appealing
Amager is Copenhagen's recreational area.
Amager – Copenhagen’s recreational neighborhood.

Where is Amager?

Once your plane is on the ground you are in Amager. Stretching from the traditional Danish town of Dragør in the southern end of the island to Christianshavn, Holmen, Refshaleøen and Indre By in the north, this island is partly urban, partly suburban.

In this neighborhood guide we will cover the central parts of the island, which are what Copenhageners refer to, when talking about Amager.

Map of Amager
Amager is a large island east of mainland Copenhagen.

What to do in Amager?

Amager is first and foremost a residential area, and while this may not be the place you go to experience the primary sights of Copenhagen, you should definitely not miss out on this giant but somewhat overlooked gem. In the summertime Amager Strandpark attracts a bunch of tourists as well as locals looking to cool down on a hot summer day. But Amager is way more than that.

If you choose to stay on here you get the pleasure of experiencing the everyday life, while you’re only a short walk or bike ride from Christianshavn, Reffen and Indre By.

5 things to do in and around the island

  • Go to Reffen – Copenhagen’s biggest street food market in Refshaleøen – and have a taste of the whole world while enjoying the laidback, trashy-trendy lifestyle of this upcoming area.
  • Jump on the metro and visit The Blue Planet Aquarium in Kastrup just a few stops away. An underwater adventure!
  • Go to the beach. If the regular Amager Beach is too mainstream for you, check out Helgoland bathhouse where you are allowed to skip the bathing suit.
  • If you’re staying on Amager you will most likely cross Amagerbrogade. This main street of the neighborhood recently had a makeover and is now even more attractive with less cars and plenty of shops, restaurants and coffee bars.
  • Hang out by the water on Islands Brygge. A hip hotspot attracting the younger crowds in the summertime.
Islands Brygge on a sunny day.
Experience Copenhagen by the water at Islands Brygge. Photo: ASTRIDKBH

Why is it called Lorteøen or Shit Island

The name ‘Shit Island’ dates back to the 1800’s when the latrine buckets from all over Copenhagen were emptied at a cleaning station in Amager. Later the area was home to a junk yard and during the 1900’s a number of industrial factories were established, which obviously wasn’t something that attracted the upper class of Copenhagen. Throughout time, Amager has been a working class area and you can still to some extent feel the pride of the working class when walking the streets.

Amazing architecture

From ‘Shit Island’ to being the shit, Amager is really something when it comes to architectural wonders.

Tietgenkollegiet – dorm rooms reinvented

This award-winning masterpiece of a student residence is not just a circular beauty created by Lundgaard & Tranberg. The architecture allows everyone to connect by making common areas visible from across the courtyard as well as accessible for all residents. Everyone can see what’s going on – and everyone can join.

Tietgenkollegiet: An architectual dorm.
Tietgenkollegiet – an architectural alternative to the mainstream dorms. Photo: Nicolai Perjesi.

Gemini Residence – from soybeans to seaview

Two former seed silos today make up one of Copenhagen’s most iconic new residential buildings. After the soybean processing plant closed in the 90’s the area of Islands Brygge was redeveloped and the former soybean cake factory was turned into a residential piece of art, finished in 2005.

The Gemini Residence in Islands Brygge.
The Gemini Residence – one of Copenhagen’s most iconic residential buildings. Photo: Adrian Lazar.

The Kastrup Sea Baths – Copenhagen’s prettiest cabana

Situated just a few meters off the coast, Kastrup Sea Baths is the place to go if you want a day at the beach without all the hassle. The round structure protects sunbathers from the wind and the deep waters offer great swimming conditions. An extended jetty that’s also pleasing to the eye! 

Kastrup Sea Bath by Amager Beach.
Enjoy a day at the beach, surrounded by cool architecture. Photo: Thomas Høyrup Christensen.

CopenHill – go skiing on a power plant 

Among architect Bjarke Ingels’ many masterpieces! CopenHill on Margretheholm is not just any power producing waste management center. It’s also a recreational area allowing Copenhageners and tourists alike to enjoy the view of the otherwise flat landscape from the top of this artificial hill. A hill that’s also a ski slope. Anything is possible according to the architectural superstar.   

CopenHill: A recreational masterpiece on Margretheholm.
CopenHill: Bjarke Ingels combines fun and functionality! Photo: Astrid Maria Rasmussen.

DR Concert Hall – it’s what’s on the inside that counts

Located at the DR (Danish Broadcasting Corporation) this concert hall by French architect Jean Nouvel may not look like much from the outside. But once you get into the big hall, sit down and listen, you will find yourself in a room without left, right, front, back or right angles. A beautiful, warm room with magnificent acoustics that allow you to focus fully on the music.

Classical music in DR Concert Hall.
DR Concert Hall offers new perspectives on music and architecture. Photo: Bjarne Bergius Hermansen.

Neighborhoods in Amager

Amager is a lot of things. It’s trashy, it’s trendy, it’s new and it’s old. Let’s have a look at the difference between some of the neighborhoods within Amager.

Amager Beach – the Miami Beach of Copenhagen

On a good day you can almost fool yourself into thinking you’re hanging out on South Beach. Ok, not really but the beach vibes are strong and on sunny days the city feels far away. In the recent years Amager Beach has become a modern residential area facing the water. So if you like the beach, this might be the place for you!

East Amager

With Amagerbrogade as its spine running through the entire neighborhood, East Amager is also what most locals consider to be the traditional Amager. Here you will find popular streets with plenty of shops and restaurants like Amagerbrogade, Holmbladsgade and Amagerfælledvej as well as Amager Centret – a small, local mall. East Amager is bordering Christianshavn and you will be in the city center in no time by bike or metro.

Eberts Villaby – an oasis in Amager

This hidden gem is located between the busy streets of Amagerbrogade and Englandsvej. However, this area is not like the rest of Amager. Spread over just a few streets, you will find beautiful historic houses where no two are alike. A tiny, quiet neighborhood in the middle of Amager.

Islands Brygge – luxury and summer vibes

Islands Brygge is the most posh part of Amager and most people living in Islands Brygge do not consider Islands Brygge to be Amager. The area is made up of the old part with buildings dating back to around 1900 located towards Langebro – and the new part centered around Bryggebroen (Brygge Bridge). This is the place to stay if you prioritize modern Airbnbs with balconies and convenience as well as relaxing by the waterfront. Besides the popular harbor baths Islands Brygge is also home to a small, artificial beach, which is ideal for families with younger children.

Recreational lifestyle in Amager.
Amager – absolutely laid-back

Cool, classy and calm

If you are looking for a neighborhood in Copenhagen that is quiet, central and beautiful, Frederiksberg might be the place to stay. Frederiksberg is one of Copenhagen’s most posh neighborhoods with giant green parks, beautiful avenues, trendy boutiques and restaurants, and while you are in close proximity to the city center, Frederiksberg is very much its own little community.

This neighborhood is cool, classy and quiet – a great place to stay, whether you travel to Copenhagen with friends or family.

Frederiksberg is your best bet if…

  • you love picnics or a stroll in the park
  • shopping is on your to do list
  • you want to stay in a quiet neighborhood
  • you want easy access to Nørrebro, Vesterbro og Indre By
Frederiksberg Allé.
Frederiksberg Allé – one of the neighborhood’s most iconic streets. Photo: Astrid Maria Rasmussen

Where is Frederiksberg?

Frederiksberg borders Nørrebro to the northeast, Valøse to the northwest, Valby and Vesterbro to the south and Indre By to the east. You have easy access to Central Copenhagen, Amager and the airport with metro lines M1 and M2, while the M3 line takes you across the city to Vesterbro, Nørrebro and Østerbro. If you want to jump on the bike it will take you 10-20 minutes to reach Central Copenhagen depending on where in Frederiksberg you are staying.

Map Frederiksberg.
Nørrebro, Vesterbro and Central Copenhagen can be reached in no time.

Frederiksberg with kids – yes or no?

Definitely yes! Frederiksberg is a great choice if you are traveling with children. With easy access to public transport, lots of playgrounds, an indoor swimming pool and some of Copenhagen’s most amazing parks, this is a great choice for families.

Kids in Copenhagen.
Traveling to Copenhagen with kids? Frederiksberg is a great choice.

5 things you should do with your kids

Picnic in Frederiksberg Gardens

Pack a lunchbox and take the kids to Frederiksberg Gardens, also known as Frederiksberg Have. Here you can walk the paths along small waterways, have a picnic in front Frederiksberg Castle, go the playground, see the elephants in the zoo and go for a boat ride. Dressed in white, green, yellow or red – the park looks stunning in all seasons!

A walking safari in Copenhagen ZOO

Next door to Frederiksberg Gardens you will find the Copenhagen Zoo, where you can see elephants, camels, polar bears, rhinos, hippos, monkeys, reptiles and much more. Enjoy lunch while looking at the pandas or join in on some of the many activities that take place everyday. The program will be announced daily at 10 a.m. on zoo.dk

Copenhagen Zoo.
See the elephants from Frederiksberg Gardens or take a tour of Copenhagen ZOO. Photo: Henrik Sørensen

Get creative at Creative Space

On a rainy day – or sunny for that matter – take the kids to Creative Space in Gammel Kongevej. Here you can immerse yourselves and spend time together in a different way while painting cups, plates, bowls and much more. After you’re done, your ceramics will be burned and you can either pick it up after a few days or have it sent to your home address. Please note that you need to make an appointment at Creative Space.

Go swimming in Frederiksberg public swimming pool

One of Copenhagen’s most traditional public swimming pools. Here you can get a workout as well as the kids can go on the slide. Or leave the kids with your partner and go to the spa and spend some time in the jacuzzi or enjoy a bit of sauna therapy. The pool is closed due to renovations until June 2021.

KU.BE – the indoor playground

Do your children need to burn off energy? Take them to KU.BE, an indoor playground and activity house where the kids can climb, tumble around and play. KU.BE is located on the outer Frederiksberg between Flintholm and Lindevang stations.

Frederiksberg Gardens.
Go on a boat ride and enjoy the beauty of Frederiksberg Gardens. Photo: Daniel Rasmussen

Playgrounds in Frederiksberg

  • The playground by Aksel Møllers Haveoffers a climbing net, a ship, trampolines and picnic facilities.
  • The newly renovated playground at Borgmester Godskesens Pladshas a pirate ship, swings and a little zipline.
  • At Danas Plads you will find a playground by an old bunker with trampolines, climbing facilities, swings and much more.
  • The nature playground at Egernvejoffers fewer facilities but more nature and great picnic areas.
  • The playground at Femte Juni Pladsis also known as the ‘train playground’. Climb the rails or ride the train: kids seem to love it.
  • Frederiksberg Have is one of the playground hotspots. The playground is a miniature version of the park itself and known to be one of the safest around Copenhagen.
  • Parkour, climbing and swings: The nature playground at Grøndalsparken has it all.
  • On Hattesens Allé the youngest ones are the center of attention. Here you will find slides, a ‘fire station’ and much more.
  • Do you want to work out while the kids are playing? The playground at Hostrups Have offers cross fit facilities as well as everything the kids can dream of.
  • The newly renovated playground at Kejserinde Dagmars Plads, right next to Frederiksberg Mall is ideal for the kids who want to play kings and queens.
  • With Frederiksberg’s tallest play tower and ball courts the playground at Langelands Plads is fun for everyone.
  • Ready to get wet? Lindevangsparkenplayground is a socalled electronic water playground, but also offers a fun maze, climbing facilities and much more.
  • Combine a stroll around The Lakes with a bit of play. Søfrontsparken has a small playground, right by St. Jørgens Lake.
  • Enjoy a picnic and let the kids play at the Steenwinkelsvej playground on Seesaws, trampolines and walls for climbing bring joy to children all ages.
Playground in Frederiksberg.
Frederiksberg is booming with playgrounds. Photo: Sergio Pavlishko

Points of interest – where to go?

Stay local and enjoy everything Frederiksberg has to offer! Except for the obvious highlights such as Copenhagen ZOO and Frederiksberg Gardens, these are five things you might want to consider.

Down under at Cisternerne

Once a water reservoir, now an underground exhibition venue located at Søndermarken across from Frederiksberg Castle. As you walk down beneath the green surface of the park, you enter a moist, underground universe that needs to be seen, heard, felt and smelled. The exhibition at Cisternerne varies but you can pretty much expect some sort of art amplified by the dark, mysterious surroundings.

Cisternerne.
Go underground at Cisternerne, an old water reservoir in Søndermarken. Photo: Daniel Rasmussen

Shop at Gammel Kongevej

As one of the main streets of Frederiksberg, Gammel Kongevej is the place to go if you’re looking to spoil yourself with clothes, shoes and interior design as well as coffee or brunch. The street starts at City Hall and continues to Planetarium The Lakes.

Run, enjoy a picnic or play at Søndermarken

While Frederiksberg Gardens is nice, neat and polished, Søndermarken offers the more rough version of a walk in the park. This is where you go if you want to run without being disturbed, if you want to meet dogs, if you want to explore hidden gems or simply just have a picnic.

A walk in the garden – Haveselskabets Have

Frederiksberg is definitely a gardener’s paradise but if you really want to get botanical you should head to Haveselskabets Have, located in Frederiksberg Gardens, on the right side of the main entrance. This is a place to relax, reflect and enjoy the view of the calm water in the lakes surrounded by all shades of green.

A French affair at Værnedamsvej

Værnedamsvej is both part of Frederiksberg and Vesterbro. Nevertheless it’s the place to go if you want wine and dine, shop or hang out – or simply just enjoy the good atmosphere. The street might be short but it has a lot to offer. Falernum wine bar, Les Trois Cochons and Granola, just to mention a few.

Værnedamsvej
Enjoy a night out on Værnedamsvej where Frederiksberg meets Vesterbro. Photo: Maria Sattrup
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